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Anne Maxfield was brought up in the early days of Julia Child, but back then what she really thrived on was the bounty of prepared foods. Onion ring...
 
 
 
 

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The Accidental Locavore Tries Whole Foods' 5-Step Program for Chicken

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This morning the Accidental Locavore bought some chicken at Whole Foods. Yeah, so? While looking over the case for thighs to make the Indian chicken with yogurt, I noticed a 5-Step Animal Welfare Rating System for the happiness of the animals.  This being competitive New York, once I found the chicken thighs, it was time to make sure my chickens lived in relative paradise before they ended being dinner. Accidental Locavore 5-Step ProgramNo such luck. The most blissful chickens weren't so idyllic, only a 2 on the scale of 1-5. Luckily, the Indian chicken is spicy, so their less-than-privileged upbringing will be lost (for sure now) under a shower of chiles, cilantro and ginger.

Being curious, the Locavore approached a woman unloading more meat into the case. "What have you got that's got a 5 rating?" "Nothing, we've just got ones and fours." "OK, so what's a four?" "The organic ground beef." My cynical brain automatically thinks that's a weird item to have the most bucolic rating in the store. Once you've ground it, who knows what it started out as...and if the organic ground beef is a 4, then shouldn't the organic steaks that it supposedly comes from also be a 4? A quick scan reveals no other rated beef in the pre-packaged case--nothing.

It's sort of the reverse of another rating system that makes me crazy. Often you're asked by a car dealership (VW especially) or a hotel to rate the service, however they tell you if you don't give it the highest rating, everyone gets fired (or some other dire threat). Well, if there’s no room to improve a service, and trust me, no one is perfect, what's the point of a rating?

So, Whole Foods, what's the purpose of the 5-step program if, being a competitive New Yorker, the Locavore can't feed her friends and family 5+ meat and chicken that spent their entire lives living in nirvana on the (same) farm? Now, I've got company coming for dinner and it's going to stress me all day...do I tell them that we're only having #2 ("enriched environment" meaning they only got one thing to play with...darn it!) chicken thighs???? What will they think?

Provided you were able to get the whole range of upbringing, do you think there are people out there who could taste the full spectrum of chicken thighs and be able to tell you which ones were the lowly 1's, (or God forbid, unrated) and which were the more formerly blissful 5's? Kind of like those wine tasters who can tell you what part of which forest the oak barrel came from...

The rating system is "available" at all Whole Foods stores in the US and now, Canada, for beef, pork and chicken, which begs another question...what about lamb? While everyone else is striving for a life of leisure with lots of toys (and what is a pig's favorite toy?), who forgot the sheep?

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KeBrown 5 pts

Just found this! We now buy only meats at Whole Foods that are 3 or higher. Tonight's dinner was a 5 - a chicken that never had its beak clipped, and lived on pasture forage, with a prescribed amount of space per bird. That sounds like the way God intended chickens to be! ...not shot up with hormones to grow bigger breasts (this chicken had nice big thighs) or crammed into barns to poop and peck all over each other.

sandiwebster 5 pts

Anne, I really don't want to know if my meat was happy or not. It only humanizes them and then I'll feel like a cannibal. Did they do a survey with the animal? I can't imagine that anything that is on my plate was happy about it! Then I will have to become a vegetarian. By the way, do they have "happiness" ratings too?

birselseck 5 pts

Dear Accidental Locavore,

I loved your commentary. What we lose in terms of taste, freshness, the pleasure of cooking with fresh, local ingredients, we try and make up with 5-steps of misplaced sophistication and value. Why can't WholeFoods give us plain old good whole foods?!

sarah@atoz 5 pts

To the AL, thank you for your yummy recipes and amusing stories. I do think that if we are going to eat meat, and the more meat the merrier in my book. I like to think its had a nice life before it ends up on my table - a little strange that we are now measuring the level of enjoyment of the animal.

@TheatreSmart 5 pts

To the Accidental Locavore: You have achieved the impossible as far as I'm concerned. When my kids left home many years ago, after so many years of cooking family meals I happily kissed cooking good-bye. Not any more! You have lured me back with your tasty tid-bits, and your delicious writing. Thank you!

annemax 5 pts

Thanks to blogher for featuring this. Would you pay more for meat that has has a better lifestyle?

photobiz 5 pts

i would imagine this is whole foods way of charging us more for higher rated meats