One of my favorite things about giving fashion advice is getting e-mail from people who are getting spiffed up for various things: weddings, reunions, life in general. New clothes are always such an optimistic thing, that whole idea that you can recreate yourself with a really great dress or the right pair of jeans. And of course, you're not really CHANGING who are you, you're just finding things that fit better and feel better and look better. You, only BETTER!

This week, I got what seemed like a pretty typical e-mail, from Susan.

I have a challenge for you that I bet you don't get asked very often. I need a wardrobe overhaul. For the past 4 years, I've been pregnant, nursing, and/or plagued with swollen breasts due to illness. My clothes were simple and generally oversized since my shape changed frequently.

That ends this week. Due to some necessary surgery, I have gone from a DD+ to an A- and find myself with nothing flattering to wear. I know that I need to get out there and shop - but I could use some style guidelines or specific picks that would flatter my new shape. I'm thinking shirts with collars to draw attention up and away from my chest ... can you help me find specific examples that are stylish yet won't break the bank? What else would you suggest?

I'm a 34 year old SAHM/consultant with two baby boys, ages 3 and 1, so anything I buy needs to be comfortable and not too fussy. I'd love advice or ideas on where to windowshop online!

What Susan didn't say in her e-mail is this: she has inflammatory breast cancer; last week, she had a successful double mastectomy. Her prognosis sounds excellent.

I got a little weepy when I realized what exactly Susan was up against; this is more than just a change in her bra size, this is a whole new beginning for her, a chance to be healthy and to move forward with her life. If anyone deserves a new wardrobe, it's Susan.

Let me just get a tissue here and we'll talk about what she wants to shop for.

I've written before about strategies for flat chested girls; those all hold true for Susan as well. But there are a few other things that she might want to think about as she transitions into this new body.

Susan should start with a bra fitting. Because she has had a radical mastectomy, she really has two choices here. She can probably go without a bra a lot of the time, if she is comfortable doing that, and so she could opt for some pretty camisoles in lightweight-stretchy fabrics, just for some coverage. Susan could also opt for a lightly padded bra, or for one with inserts to give her a little bit of a bust. I would suggest she look for something that would take her up to about a B cup, at the most, just enough to give her some curves.

And now let me pause for a second and say this: I'm not saying that Susan, or anyone who is post-mastectomy, NEEDS to have cleavage. I cannot imagine what it must be like to be in Susan's shoes, but I would guess that it will take some adjusting to get used to her new chest. A padded bra gives her the option to have some curves, however minimal. That is all.

Ruffle cotton dress, Boden USA, $108.00

A wrap dress flatters every figure; with a flatter chest, Susan may want to layer the dress over a camisole or tank, but it will still create some curves for her. I like this one, from Boden because it can be either very casual and kid-friendly or a little bit more dressy and grown up.

For casual wear Susan can pair a slim crew-neck tee with a pair of mid-rise, straight leg jeans or chinos, for a simple, kid-friendly line. She can also opt for a crew neck sweater, for colder weather. Crew necks are God's gift to flat chested women, really. Add a great necklace, either something long or a choker length, and you're good to go.

For a slightly dressier look, Susan can look for button-front blouses and jackets with chest pockets, which will give her some depth. Ruching or ruffles at the chest will also create the illusion of more chest.

Finally, Susan can look for V-neck tops that she can layer over a camisole or tank top. The V neck will work with either a camisole or padded bra, depending on how much cleavage Susan wants to create.

Where can Susan shop? Old Navy is often a good source for moderately priced blouses and tops, and Susan can preview the goods on line before she heads for the store. The same is true of Ann Taylor Loft, which has some cute spring pieces right now. And while Boden is a little more expensive, they have great tops in beautiful colors and styles.

You can follow Susan's story at Toddler Planet, and read more of her posts at DC Metro Moms Blog and Review Planet.

Susan Wagner writes about fashion at Friday Style and The Working Closet and Fashion Find.

Related Posts:

• Layer up for spring (in a dress, even!)
• How to find the perfect little black dress
• Wardrobe basics: the tee shirt

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