Discovering Stavanger, Norway

Kim_Mance — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 23:37:46 -0500

I recently lived in Stavanger, Norway for two years and loved every moment. I affectionately refer to the area as utopia. The thought of Scandinavia may conjure images of a frozen tundra, but Stavanger is like the 'California' of Norway. It is well-situated on the country's west coast and warmed by the Gulf Stream.

At the right time of year, this area enjoys bright sunny days and is bursting with azaleas and sandy beaches. But the most warmth comes from its kind and welcoming inhabitants. Stavanger is the perfect destination for those in search of adventure as well as families seeking kid-friendliness.

A small city, Stavanger can be seen in a few day’s time, but its
offerings could keep you there for weeks. With direct flights from
Amsterdam and a few other European port cities, it’s also a good
jumping off point for entry into Norway if Bergen and Oslo are also on the list (as they should be).

Gamle Stavanger, or Old Stavanger, is in the town center and is rich in history but relatively undiscovered and light on tourists. Start the day at Hotel Victoria with a cup of no-nonsense Norwegian coffee and an elaborate koldtbord (buffet) breakfast, then step out into the narrow cobbled streets lined with 17th and 18th century wooden buildings. Everything from handmade Norwegian sweaters to the most sophisticated electronics populate window displays in this maze of quaint little shops. All roads eventually lead back to the city's Vågen, a sliver of the North Sea that creates a bustling harbor right in the town square. Though small, it is deep and the harbor hosts cruise ships and trading vessels as high as the tallest surrounding buildings.

During the week, fishermen sell their fresh catch directly from boats and flower stands dot the city square. On Saturdays this ancient inlet is brimming with locals selecting from the Fish Market's array of seafood. Walking up the hill behind the Vågen brings the delightfully vibrant Farmer's Market into view. Much of Norway's food is grown on the outskirts of Stavanger and these industrious farmers are pioneers in hydroponics and greenhouse farming which extends the growing season.

After perusing the area's bounty, continue up the hill toward the Domkirke, Stavanger's historic cathedral. Built in 1125, it is one of the best-preserved medieval cathedrals in all of Europe, and is open to the public.

Wind around the back of the cathedral to breathe in the fresh Nordic air and rest on a bench overlooking the city center's Lake Breiavatnet with a fountain in the center. Now head back down Skagenkaien (street) to N. B. Sørenson's for a light lunch. Make sure to ask for a bottle of Farris, a specialty local sparkling mineral water. After 15-20 years of trickling through glacier ice, it makes its way to a spring and bottling plant located beneath a forested mountain in a neighboring county... and eventually to your lunch table.

A visit to the Arkeologisk (Archeology) Museum is interesting as the Viking culture was one of surprising gender equality for the time. Women were able to inherit property, could serve as speakers at court, and held other important positions in Viking society. This sentiment has continued into modern times and Norway ranks among the highest in parity between men and women lawmakers, and ranks second on the World Economic Forum's 2007 Gender Gap Report. Norway has also had a woman prime minister.

Also on this side of the harbor you can climb Valbergtårnet, a 19th Century watch tower, for a great view of the historic downtown area. Unlike most European cities, everything is built of wood, so until newer technologies were available, this tower was constantly staffed with people monitoring the rooftops for any sign of fire.

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Discovering Stavanger, Norway