It was summer, 2008.

The farm dinner movement had just gotten some momentum and across the country, groups like Dinners At The Farm and Plate and Pitchfork brought fine dining to the source. Here in Colorado, the Johnny Appleseed of farm dinners, Jim Denevan swept through on his converted bus and brought together fine chefs, farms, wine, people in magnificent settings.
We
made it up to Paonia for the fruit infused dinner, peach country up in
them thar hills. Guest chefs Mark Fischer of Restaurant Six89 in
Carbondale and the crew of Aspen's The Little Nell had a gorgeous
extended table set up by Zephyros Farm's pond, but the skies had other
plans. A mad dash brought the setting for one hundred-plus diners into
the greenhouse, creating an intimate affair.
Highlights.....Grappa-soaked peaches with goat cheese and honey, fried
squash blossoms filled with lavender ricotta, lots of fresh local wine.
Endless conversation with hardy adventurists from far and wide, all
huddled around candles by hay bales and potting supplies. All
appreciating the freshest possible delights set before us. Truly
special.
A good night's sleep at a local inn topped off a perfect
evening. The drive back the next morning through majestic McCLure Pass,
took us through the mountain towns of Redstone ("Ruby of the Rockies") where turn-of-the-century craftsmen-era Swiss style cottages are still in use.
More
modest Hotchkiss, Somerset and Marble (guess what they quarry here?)
bring you right down to Carbondale, where some ill-planned construction
added an additional hour to the journey back to Boulder.
But what
fortune awaited us upon learning that the traveling band of gourmands
were setting up another dinner at our local Munson's Farm. And the
famed Frasca crew were on hand to take their magic into the field. We were there!
A
glass of wine and a tour of the farm started the evening. Jim Munson
welcomed guests, then his sons Bob and Mike took over with explanations
of crop rotation, irrigation, heirloom seeds, all kinds of things that
are the daily concern of these noble, hardy souls. Our weekly visits to
local Farmer's Markets can't reveal the true grit, real and figurative,
that goes into churning out consistent, clean food that makes its way
to candle-lit tables everywhere.
A late afternoon sun assured the
crowd that storms were not to mar this event. The Munsons had taken out
several rows of corn to lay a long, elegant table amidst towering
stalks. Enthusiastic staff raced up and down the sides to rest large
bowls of colorful fare, served family style. Frasca owner/sommelier,
Bobby Stuckey kept glasses filled, conversation going, smiles
lingering. A beautiful pasta with shards of summer squash and herbs
anchored the meal but for me, this was the night I discovered Buratta.
Huge pillows of this rich, buttery-tasting mozzarella-type cheese were
set on plates amidst multi-colored heirloom tomatoes, basil, olive oil.
No knife needed. A spoon pierced the thin skin releasing an ooze of
fresh ricottoa-like cream to be absorbed by blocks of fresh bread. And
dotted with basil bits. And tomatoes. And pass that plate back over
here please. And again. Thanks!