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Hi, I'm Chris. I cook, write, knit, read, eat, watch TV, drink wine, listen to podcasts, do laundry, play with my toddler and laugh with my husband....
 
 
 
 

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$8-A-Dozen Eggs? An Organic Quandary

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$8 for a dozen eggs? When I saw Jane Black’s post in The Atlantic I could not believe that anyone would pay that price. As I mulled it over I realized that I wasn’t even sure why these eggs were superior to normal eggs. And after re-reading the article I’m not sure they are. Or at least, I’m not sure they’re any healthier than the best organic cage-free eggs from the grocery store (under $3 a dozen at my store). The difference is that these oval wonders hail from a small local farm that is not caught up in the industrial food mill. This means, for one thing, no government subsidies, making it hard for the small environmentally-aware farmers to compete with the big guys by offering comparable prices.

Pastured Eggs

But more than just making it difficult to compete, I think it also makes it difficult for the average person to understand. Why are the eggs $8 a dozen? Because the farm is smaller? Because their methods for taking care of chickens are more involved? Because the farmer doesn’t qualify for big tax breaks?

Umm…can you explain it to me again? How exactly does this affect me, the consumer? And why would I want to pay $8 for a dozen eggs? Just to help the guy out? Unlikely!

This is a very complicated issue and trying to figure out where to put your $8 is not easy. But the tough decision is not restricted to the small versus big farm choice, or the sustainable versus non-sustainable, or the local versus non-local. We make these kinds of decisions all the time and it’s not clear to me how we do it.

Recently after a book club meeting I sat around talking food with four intelligent well-read moms. The conversation went through BPA, hormones in milk and the nutritional content of today’s apple. What was striking was that everyone in the group had a different take on what was safe and what was healthiest. We’d all read stuff but we must have read different stuff and come to very different conclusions.

If it’s hard to sift through the information and come up with clear answers to the questions, “What’s healthiest for my family? How safe are the foods I’m feeding to my child?” then how much more difficult is it to answer, “What’s best for society? What will improve the health, safety and well-being of the nation?”

I don’t have answers to these questions. But I do have to decide if I’ll spend $8 on a dozen eggs. I really want to but I know that I won’t. I know that the issues are important but they just aren’t affecting me enough in a way that I see and understand on a daily basis. And if they’re not affecting me, a conscientious intelligent person who reads about it all and somewhat understands it all, then it’s not clear to me that this kind of food-revolution will succeed. I wonder what it would take to make me pay that price? What would it take to make you pay $8 for a dozen eggs?

Chris from Cook the Story

Where stories that make you drool are better than those that don't!

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(c) 2011 Christine Pittman. All Rights Reserved.

Image Credit: LA • DE • DA on Flickr, used under a Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic (CC BY 2.0) license.

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emma. jane 5 pts

$8:00 sounds pretty steep I know- and I baulk at 6:50 in the grocery store for ' organic' eggs but having read these comments I guess when you think of it on a per egg basis 67 c isn't too bad. I mean how much would you pay for a good egg? I like the eggs to be rich golden/orange yolked that sit up in the pan when you crack them and taste like the sunshine. If I get dozen eggs that are pale and wimpy yolked I throw them out ( and my $4.00).

Its a bit like bread I guess. I am horrified that bread can be $7:50 a loaf! For a simple sourdough rye! Should be work out how much we would pay per slice??

I think because they are what we consider basic foods we feel somehow entitled to them being cheap. Probably better to buy good eggs, good bread and nice tomatos ( they are another expensive item), lettuce and maybe ham at a pinch and have lovely omelettes and sandwiches for days for $20.00 than buying lamb for the same price and having to add all the extras on top....

Don't know. Everything seems expensive when you're a single mum!

KarenLynnn 76 pts

i've been buying local produce this summer through a CSA (community supported ag) and it has forced me to think outside of my comfort zone as far as veggies go (big black turnips anyone?) i won't do it again next year. it was 600 dollars for the 26 week season, paid in installments which was nice. but i don't think it makes economic sense for me to be buying things i'm going to end up tossing (arugula with slugs? no thanks). i usually end up stopping at the farm stand to buy veggies which are mostly grown locally (in season, they do import their blueberries from michigan)

now the eggs... our CSA farm was selling them at 5 dollars a dozen, but we won't buy them at that price. i've been after the hubs to get a few chickens that we could have live out back, but we both balked at the work aspect of having half a dozen chickens, plus our subdivision would probably hate us. anyway, we do know a gal who did raise six chickens from peeps and we get our eggs from her: 2.50 a dozen delivered. they come in all different shades of brown, some of them have spots on the shells, they are different sizes and delicious. i've always lived in "farm country" in suburbia, and i often see "eggs for sale" signs at farms. not sure if you live in an area with farms, but check your local pennysaver newspaper for eggs. 8.00 a dozen is just ridiculous.

Vinobaby 7 pts

I would love to buy organic and local. But unfortunately, my grocery budget really doesn't have the wiggle room. I buy as many fresh fruits and veggies as possible, whatever is in season and at a good price. If strawberries are on sale for $2, I'm going to have to buy them instead of paying the $6 organic ones. And I will be happy my family is eating fruit instead of processed junk. I will admit, veggies grown in my garden taste better than anything I have ever purchased in a store, but that is a very small season. And I don't necessarily trust our local farmers markets (there was just a news story about how they shipped in all their "local" produce). I do my best to get healthy, balanced, home cooked meals into my family, but I'm not going to sell my car to pay for organic/free range food. If I win the lotto, I'll promise to keep the $8 egg farmer in business though.

CookTheStory 10 pts

You're so right! There are so many factors that go into how we decide what to feed our families. Knowledge is one factor. But no matter how much you know, if you're on a budget (as most of us are) then money has to win much of the time. Here's where I plug another post: We should all pay attention to what's going on with the upcoming Farm Bill. If we want the cost of sustainable organic food to come down, the Farm Bill could be a big help. See here http://www.cookthestory.com/2011/09/26/my-opinion-...

My post about the Farm Bill is also featured on BlogHer Green here: http://www.blogher.com/my-opinion-monday-how-sexy-...Vinobaby

Red Dirt Kelly 5 pts

I had this exact line of thinking and wrote one of my local farmers about it. I LOVE her eggs best (strongest shells, most dense, orange-yellow yolk, holds up great to whatever I dish out in a pan, etc.) She wrote me an e-mail about her costs incurred, and then explained it extremely well in a blog post. For those of you who are interested, I highly recommend reading the cost/benefit analysis of raising eggs here - thanks, RDK http://www.heavensentfoodandfiber.com/blog/2011/08...

CookTheStory 10 pts

What a great explanation for the cost. Thank you for the link. This also reinforces the thought I wrote below that we as a society probably undervalue eggs in general. We undervalue them in terms of their value as a protein source: They're possibly one of the most reasonably priced protein sources out there. And, it seems, we undervalue them in terms of what it costs to raise the chickens and the ntransport the eggs tot he consumer. Thanks again! Red Dirt Kelly

spinneo 5 pts

What the chicken eats is a HUGE part of the expense, and also changes the egg quite a bit. Chickens which truly range free are also eating a lot of insects and grubs. In other words, they're eating protein, and the result is a rich yellow yolk with noticeably different properties. "Cage free" eggs usually implies that the birds are housed in tight quarters in a big metal shed. They eat a very homogeneous diet of grain (with perhaps some seaweed added for "omega-3 enhanced" eggs) and they don't go outside.

Farmers who treat their hens really well also lose a few to predators. That doesn't happen in big metal sheds, and it drives up the marginal cost.

My favorite marketing oddity with eggs: some say "vegetarian fed" on them, as if this were all natural. A chicken's natural diet isn't vegetarian! They like bugs.

CookTheStory 10 pts

I *love* that! I'd never thought about it before. I am one of those fools who often chooses the vegetarian eggs. I will not be fooled again! Thanks for all the great info! spinneo

spinneo 5 pts

CookTheStory You're not a fool. Marketing on packages is very, very confusing. Another weird one is "hormone free" chicken. Farmers aren't ever allowed to give hormones to chickens, so ALL chicken is hormone free. (Not so with other meats, though.) Who could possible keep it all straight? That's one reason I love to buy meat at the farmer's market. The farmer is standing right there to answer my questions.

Lenette Sparacino 6 pts

It really is so confusing today what is the best to feed our families. Just when you think something is healthy, you find out it may very well not be. As far as the prices, that's just so tough right now in our economy. So many families do want to buy what is best, but who can afford eggs for $8/dozen. Where I live in Arkansas, it is pretty easy to get free range eggs, but some of the more rural areas don't always have access to them. Eating healthy and attaining healthy food should be easier in my book.

CookTheStory 10 pts

Conflicting info is the most difficult thing I face when trying to decide where to put my organic dollar. I love The Dirty Dozen list and the Clean Fifteen list as well as the Seafood Watch Guide here http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/cr_seafoodwa... for that reason. However, I've decided to trust these lists with very little additional research. They could be wrong and I wouldn't know it. Lenette Sparacino

radar5 6 pts

Thank for this post. There is a farm close to me that sells raw goats milk for $10 gallon. I don't buy it, because I can't afford it. I do believe in its benefits.

If I was able to afford it, I would. It's that simple.

To spend $8 on a dozen eggs I have to know why they were better than those I can get at the grocery store. Then, I'd have to believe it.

CookTheStory 10 pts

I think you're right even more generally. It's about giving people the info and about convincing them it's worth it. Somehow, processed food marketers are great at doing that. Organic food marketers? Not so much. *sigh* radar5

Otsdawa Junction Farm 5 pts

This is such a thoughtful piece. Organic *is* great, but not when there's no one who can afford it! I've seen $9.50/gallon organic milk in our local health food store and thought about how quickly we'd drink through the mortgage money filling three small kids' sippy cups.

We buy local and eat local. While it may not always be "organic," at least our cash supports agriculture, and not shippers.

But we don't buy $9.50 milk, and we'd never get $8.00 eggs. That's just silly.

CookTheStory 10 pts

Thank you! I obviously agree. I wonder also if the excessive prices give organic foods an elitist bad rap in some circles. Seeing those kinds of prices could make someone who was thinking of going organic to turn around and walk away for good. Otsdawa Junction Farm

heather.mcconnaughy@gmail.com 5 pts

$8 is really steep.

I get eggs from a local, who buys cartons for new customers and reuses them when she can , and she only charges $2.50 a dozen. That's actually cheaper than our grocery stores non-organic eggs. The most expensive I've found is $3.50 a dozen. They are all people who have chickens because they want to and sell the "extra" eggs.

I had 16 chickens, which I fed organic feed, cracked corn (when I called them in at night), oyster shell, and whatever scraps we had from the day (veggies, meat scraps, egg shells, etc.) (The scraps were taken out right away so nothing was rotten.)

I did the math and it costs about 12.50 a month per chicken (Including water and electricity for the coop). Each chicken lays 5 eggs a week, most weeks. That makes it .625 cents per egg which would be $7.50 a dozen. This is with no scraps or cracked corn.

I can see why the farmer was charging so much, but by giving my chickens the scraps, which they love (especially apples) and is good for them, and letting them free range during the day, they eat waaaay less feed.

So I guess the prices aren't out of line if it is a large chicken farm and they only feed the chickens pre-purchased feed. At the same time I'm sure they pay a lot less for their feed per pound than I do at my local feed store, because the more you buy at a time the cheaper it is.

heather.mcconnaughy@gmail.com 5 pts

I just read the original article and I wasn't far off on my math. H's eggs are .67 cents each.

CookTheStory 10 pts

Interesting to hear that having chickens yourself winds up costing about $8 a dozen. I somehow thought it would be cheaper.

I mentioned this in a comment thread on FB but it's worth bringing up here as well: I wonder if we as a society undervalue eggs. If you forget that you normally pay between $2.50 and $4 a dozen (pretend you never knew that) and consider this: 2 eggs are a serving of protein so a dozen eggs is 6 servings. How much do we spend for 6 servings of other proteins? My bet is that the average is closer to $8 than to $2.50.

That logic combined with your conclusion that raising your own chickens results in $8 dozens makes me think that eggs should actually be worth more to us than we are used to paying.

heather.mcconnaughy@gmail.com

The Bake-Off Flunkie 5 pts

$8 sounds like a lot. I pay $4/dozen and get them from a local farmer. They are free-range and I know they get to live their lives like chickens because I've seen them. For me, that's why I pay more than at the grocery store. Factory farms--whether it is chickens, cows, pigs, whatever--are horrific places. And just because a package says "organic" or "free range" doesn't mean that the animal lived it's life in a good way. There is a ton of wiggle room when it comes to label regulation. You can't blindly trust what you read anymore. I want to know where my food comes, as much as is possible.

CookTheStory 10 pts

$4 does sound much more reasonable.

Knowing where your food comes from is valuable, I agree. Can I ask how much time you spend finding that out? I find it time-consuming to just read all the labels in the grocery store, let alone to get a moment to speak with the dude at the farmers market to get clarification on where everything has come from, what's local today, etc.. Between that and doing tiny bits of research online into what's safe, it tacks on a ton of time to get my family fed, especially with my usual goals of home cooked from scratch food. The Bake-Off Flunkie

The Bake-Off Flunkie 5 pts

CookTheStory

To be honest, I've never really thought about the time, probably because it's mixed in with everything else I do. (It's for sure not like people who do extreme couponing who spend hours tracking down coupons.) I like to buy my meat from the same place I get the eggs (but can't/don't always).And I don't buy all my produce from a farmer's market. Knowing where my food comes from *as much as possible* is all I can do, and I hope it does something for food animals/the enviornment/my families health. :)

CookTheStory 10 pts

Yeah, it's hard to factor in the time. But between the cost and the bits of time (to go to a different store, to go to the market, etc) it's sometimes hard to justify. I still do a lot of it much of the time. And when I don't, I do my best not to feel like I've failed. I am positive (as you also seem to be) that the little bits we do when we can are making a difference. The Bake-Off Flunkie

Erin Groh 6 pts

I'm curious to know where you are located? In the Bay Area, we're very lucky, in that we can get a lot of great local food for pretty cheap. I buy my eggs from a local farm, mostly because I don't want to support factory farming. I think it's also important to note that the USDA doesn't actually have a definition for "free-range" so anyone can put that label on their eggs, and that beak-cutting and starvation are both allowed under the label "certified organic." So what you're buying at the grocery store is probably not what you think it is.

Here's a link on the Humane Society's website with definitions for all the different egg-carton labels: http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/confinement_fa...

CookTheStory 10 pts

I'm in Central Florida. The $8-A-Dozen eggs in question though were originally written about by Jane Black and they were being sold at a Brooklyn Farmers Market (see link to Jane's article at the top of my post).

You're right that I don't know much about the labeling of eggs. I'm a lazy consumer and I often take what's written on labels at face value (with a bit of critical thinking, of course). But that probably goes to my main point that it's hard to sort through the info out there and figure out what's best for your family, let alone what's best for society.

Thanks for the link! I'm heading there now.

Erin Groh

sassymonkey 121 pts moderator

We've paid $6 a dozen (we were curious). We've also paid half of that for a flat of 30. Both came from local farmers and we could not tell the difference between the two. So for our money, we're sticking to the $3/dozen or the $4/flat.

The best deal I ever got on eggs though was when I was dating someone whose parents had a little hobby farm. Most people don't want small eggs so they were kept for family. Farm fresh eggs for free just because they were on the small side. It was awesome.

CookTheStory 10 pts

I *love* the idea of free farm fresh eggs. I've toyed with getting a couple of chickens for our yard. The eggs wouldn't be free exactly but they'd be cheap and we'd know how the chickens were treated. But every time I mention it my husband's eyes bug out and I know that he's a long way from being convinced. sassymonkey

LucindaA 11 pts

That's pretty steep when I can pay $2-3 for a dozen eggs from a local farm here that are all free-range birds.

CookTheStory 10 pts

I know. It does sound like way too much. In Jane Black's article (link at the beginning of the post) she tries to explain why they cost so much. But it's still hard to justify. LucindaA

victorias_view 300 pts

It's a good question and a lot to think about - what is the healthiest choices for our family? But at eight dollars a dozen it seems like a steep price to pay for a family on a budget.

CookTheStory 10 pts

Figuring out what is healthiest for our families and balancing that against cost is tough. I agree that $8 is too steep. But I haven't figured out where my cut off point is. Would $6 be ok? $5? victorias_view

Conversation from Facebook

BlogHer
BlogHer

Cook The Story Have you read Alice Walker's book about raising chickens? Or her blog -- most, but not all, of the posts are about her chickens. http://alicewalkersgarden.com/blog/ - Denise

Cook the Story
Cook the Story

Do you currently have chickens? I love the idea and think of it often. However, I know I will never follow-through, and not only because my husband thinks I'm nuts whenever I mention it.

Vitamin B12 Patch
Vitamin B12 Patch

Personally, I'd rather just raise my own chickens and collect my own eggs.

Cook the Story
Cook the Story

Since writing this post I've thought a lot about the value of eggs. I still wouldn't pay $8 for a dozen but I think that's because I'm used to paying $3-4, which is perhaps too good of a value. If you consider 2 eggs a serving of protein, then a dozen eggs yields 6 servings of protein. There are very few (if any) protein sources that come in at 50 cents per person. Have we as a society been undervaluing eggs?

Christine Pittman
Christine Pittman

It would be interesting to find out what this farmer is doing that is so much more labor-intensive than the other egg farmers. It's clear from Jane Black's article that he has specific standards but are these different from the standards employed by other farmers?

Ann Quirk
Ann Quirk

That is a lot....I pay $5 a dozen for cage and antibiotic free eggs now, which is enough, IMO.

Lisa Brawner
Lisa Brawner

dont think i would .I pay 3 a doz from a small farmer here locally and she drops them off for me

Organic Baby University
Organic Baby University

I pay $5 for truly pasture-raised, organic eggs...a lot yes ):

Gwen Stackler
Gwen Stackler

I am all for supporting local organic businesses, but if you have to charge $8 a dozen for your eggs to stay afloat, there is something wrong with your business plan/strategy. I pay $3 to the guy down the street and can even pick which chickens I want them from.

Tiffiny Harmer Felix
Tiffiny Harmer Felix

$8 sounds like a lot. I pay $4/dozen and get them from a local farmer. They are free-range and I know they get to live their lives like chickens because I've seen them. For me, that's why I pay more than at the grocery store. Factory farms--whether it is chickens, cows, pigs, whatever--are horrific places. And just because a package says "organic" or "free range" doesn't mean that the animal lived it's life in a good way. There is a ton of wiggle room when it comes to label regulation. You can't blindly trust what you read on packages anymore. I want to know where my food comes, as much as is possible.

Max Anton Franks
Max Anton Franks

We pay 4.50/ dozen for pastured organic eggs.

Ruthanna Stiner Morrow
Ruthanna Stiner Morrow

Wow! not $8 a dozen! In TX a dozen free range large eggs are $3.75/ doz.

Elizabeth Van Jacob
Elizabeth Van Jacob

I pay $2/dozen to a local, organic farmer.