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Over the next few weeks, we're going to talk about strategies for dressing specific body types (curvy on top, curvy on the bottom, a little extra in the middle, flat on top, etc). We're looking at what to wear to create a long, lean line, and at where to shop for all sorts of events, from everyday to dress up. Today we're starting with the apple shape. You're an apple if you carry most of your weight through your mid-section. Alyssa is a perfect example:
I'm what most people would call a curvy apple, I guess. I carry most of my weight on the top and middle. I'm 34" around my ribs (and 33" at the smallest part of me) and 42" around my chest, making me a 34G cup size. I'm about 40" around the widest part of my bottom, I'm stuck between a size 12 and 14 pants right now. The worst of it is, I'm 5'6" with a 33" inseam. I wear long length pants most of the time. The biggest thing I have trouble with is tops usually and also with pants not being too long in the crotch or too short. That's probably too much info, but hope it helps.
It does help, Alyssa, for two reasons: it gives us a real body to imagine while we're talking about what to wear, and it reminds all of us that most women are NOT built like an Olsen twin (thank god).
First let's start with two basic rules (these apply to EVERYONE, by the way): no matter what your shape or size, you need a bra that fits properly and a tailor that you trust. The right bra can totally change your look, particularly if you have a large chest; a great tailor can make sure that EVERYTHING fits properly, all the time.
Okay! Moving on.
The goal for an apple shape, or for anyone who is carrying most of her weight in her midsection, is to create a waist. Do this by looking for tops that fit properly through the chest and shoulders but ALSO nip in at the waist. Look for tops with a V neck, or a deep scoop neck; this will lengthen the neckline and draw attention up to your face. Button-up shirts or blouses should fit through the shoulders and bust and should taper at the waist; have them taken in if you need to.
Clinton and Stacy recommend "a one- or two-button fitted jacket with a stance that hits above the natural waistline." I agree (of course) but I would add that you can think about where you're going to wear the jacket. For work, choose something in a wool crepe or tweed; for casual wear, think about corduroy or a nice cotton chino. Make sure you can button the jacket comfortably; if you can't then it doesn't fit. Again, if you need to, have it tailored through the waist. Jacket from Ann Taylor, $198.00. Available in sizes 00-18.
Shirts and jackets should hit at the high hip, no lower. Remember, you're trying to create a waist; a long jacket or long shirt will swallow you up.
On the bottom, look for skirts with a little flare (an A-line is good, OF COURSE) that hit just below the knee. Choose trousers with a mid-rise (not all the way up to your boobs, but not low-rise either) and a wide leg, one that falls straight from the hip. This will give you a long, lean line. Choose a shoe with a pointy toe, or at least with a narrow toe box, rather than something wide and round. Peep toes are a nice alternative as well, as long as you are appropriately pedicured.
Avoid baby doll tops and dresses (I know, this is hard this season, but trust me--they will only make you look wider through the middle), skinny pants and skirts (again, they will make you look wide through the middle). Instead, choose pieces that create the visual image of a waist, through seaming or tailoring.
Coming Monday: the pear. Oooh, that's me! Excellent.
Susan Wagner writes about fashion at Friday Style and everything else at Friday Playdate. You can e-mail her your figure questions at fridaystyle DOT susan AT gmail
