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SJ is based out of Seattle, WA. Her fate to be a "Pop Culture Librarian" was sealed when she studied information behavior on a Britney Spear...
 
 
 
 

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Nose-to-Tail Eating: Will It Stick to Your Ribs, or is It Just Another Offal Trend?

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I eat everything, including lots of things I shouldn't. I gleefully eat things that are colored a toxic shade of blue or orange, stuff I find at the bottom of my purse, and once on a bet when I was working retail I ate a security tag to see if it would go off when I went through the door. It didn't. (Protip: want to boost that knife set? Open wide.) Once I even ate half of a fortune cookie that I dropped onto the grubbiest, sketchiest street here in Seattle. It's like the pavement-equivalent of the Victorian-era Thames River, and like Ye Olde Thames, is also probably one step away from being on fire. I blame pregnancy on the cookie incident, but I probably would have done it on a non-pregnant day as well.

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So, as an avid home cook and unrepentant omnivore, I was excited when my friend put Fergus Henderson's offal bible, The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating in my hands a few months ago. Though it was first published in 1999, the book seems to only really be catching on here in the U.S. as of late. Chef Fergus Henderson is now infamous for reintroducing things that we don't usually eat anymore at his London restaurant, today in the time of prepacked boneless, skinless chicken cutlets (now with more vitamin C and MPGs). In case you haven't had the pleasure of flipping through it, it's full of recipes for animal parts I don't even know how to get, and the recipes have titles like "Blood Cake and Fried Eggs." That sounds kind of like a euphemism for something you'd find in a men's' bathroom after a Saturday night in a sketchy bar, doesn't it?

"Oh, sweet, " I thought. Now I'll have something to do with all those trotters that are stacking up in the freezer." Except...not. Despite my love of trying new and weird things (which in this case is weird and old things, as humans have been eating "odd" animal bits for thousands of years), could I do what this book outlined? Did I even have a pot big enough to hold a sheep's head? No, I did not.

I began to have a suspicion at this point. This fellow, that Hell's Kitchen guy, Batali, they're all part of that studly modern chefery thing. I don't know if mere mortals without a professional kitchen and a bead on the funky bits market are supposed to even try these recipes. I know people who cook in various ways with organ meats, but I don't know anyone who was raised on fried pig's tails or potato-stuffed trotter and is going "Oh NOM, just like grandma used to make." Henderson includes a recipe for lamb's brains, and notes they are, of course, still illegal in the UK where he is based. Are these recipes or museum pieces?

So I had an epiphany. Hey, this is the internet. If anyone is experimenting with this book, I'll bet they're bragging about it to their friends. I took a look around and discovered that loads of people have the book, and make vows to "try some things in it in the next few months, maybe." I did find a few brave souls who were experimenting. Some people looked like they were having fun, but in other cases it look like that studly modern, er, oven-mitt waving.

It looks like I somehow missed National Pig Day this year, March 1, which has ties to and embraces the offal movement. Many celebrated that day by partaking in the "nose-to-tail" eating philosophy, such as being involved in pig roasts. One author toasted her pig throughout the day, the culinary equivalent of pouring a fotie out to your homie, except I don't suppose you can call what happens to farm animals "drive-bys."

Others, like redsquirrel, went smaller scale by starting out with one of the egg recipes, which is a good compromise. Recently, the author of cook eat fret had a chef-guest who made her a sizzling, delicious-looking plate of pork belly, and you bet she mentions he is a fan of Henderson. A couple of days later she follows up with roasted bone marrow.

My curiosity was satisfied. There were some people out there in the real world having fun with some "unusual" foods that our grandparents of 150-200 years ago would probably find totally normal. (It's too bad we can't

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Ryan 5 pts

I'm blogging about working my way through the entire cookbook here:

 http://www.nosetotailathome.com ( http://www.nosetotailathome.com/ )

 I've even finished off three of the four lamb brain's recipes. Now, to try and find a woodcock...

kazari 5 pts

my kitchen guinea pigs (my husband and various assorted friends) are not fans of 'variety meats'.

If drooled over some of Maya Angelou's recipes in 'Hallelujah, the welcome table', but unless i'm willing to eat a whole plate of liver by myself, those books are gonna stay on the shelf.

 i just have to wait for my dad to visit.  he's a big fan of brains, sweet breads and steak and kidney pie.

Gena Haskett 6 pts

I see them in supermarkets now and I can't eat them for love or money.

It was the word "Trotters" that goofed me up, I never saw a jaw of Trotters, only picked pig feet.

Gena - Out On The Stoop ( http://outonthestoop.blogspot.com )

calya 5 pts

When I was a child I would eat chicken feet like they were candy when we went out for dim sum. When I was a teenager I figured out what they were and couldn't bear to eat them anymore. I can't believe I didn't think that they were chicken feet! They really look like feet!

Calya

www.cookiediaries.blogspot.com ( http://www.cookiediaries.blogspot.com/ )

Kim Pearson 5 pts

Best cooked with vinegar. Chitlins, too.  Only trusted my stepmother's -- took hours to clean them, and Gena's right, they stunk up the house.Nowadays I substitute smoked turkey butts for ham hocks, but nothing goes better in a pot of greens, black-eyed peas or succotash. Don't think I could do brains, though. Heads generally, especially when they are served with the eyes on. My food should not look back at me, that's all I'm saying.

Kim
BlogHer Contributing Editor ( http://blogher.org/blog/kim-pearson )|Professor Kim ( http://professorkim.blogspot.com/ )|

HannahVB 5 pts

We sold a couple of 'boutique' offal cook books in the shop my husband and I ran here in Bath for a couple of years, and much as I consider myself brave and a gourmand, I did decide in the end just NOT to contend with any of them, exotic as they were. I'll have to remember what this great other one was and post a link... I think it was by an Italian lady. Then there was the one from Absolute Press, which was based in Bath... Hmmm. I know I had lovely sweetbreads en croute once at a fancy dinner, but I don't think I'd go out of my wayt to get at them at home, and I've been tempted by the idea of someday doing an authentic barbacoa - with roast pork cheek shredded off the head - but I hold few illusions as to how likely that is. Anyway - respect is due to those with the, er, prairie oysters to tackle this stuff. 

Hannah Levbarg
Venus Bogardus
Patchogue Records

myspace: www.myspace.com/venusbogardus ( http://www.myspace.com/venusbogardus )
web: www.venusbogardus.com ( http://www.venusbogardus.com )
electronic press kit: www.patchoguerecords.com/press ( http://www.patchoguerecords.com/press )
see too: www.myspace.com/hannahvenusbogardus ( http://www.myspace.com/hannahvenusbogardus )

Super Jive 5 pts

In this context, the author meant the actual feet!

Gena Haskett 6 pts

AKA pig or cow intestines? It is probably dying out and no one under 30 knows how to make them. Boiled for hours and then deep fried in butter, garlic and onions with mass quantities of hot sauce near the plate.

Now you really had to trust the person cleaning and cooking those rascals or you'd wind up in the Emergency Room.

The air quality did suffer but that is good eating for those that can partake. I can't touch the stuff, I love it but it doesn't love me back anymore. Pig tails, pig knuckles and I'm kinda sure we would have ate the oink too.

Gena - Out On The Stoop ( http://outonthestoop.blogspot.com )

Super Jive 5 pts

Kalyn, thanks for the link! No matter how much I look, I love that someone always has more links for me after I post! Awesome.

And now that I have the full scoop on Pig Day! I am there from now on. Even if there is just my house.

Denise 9 pts moderator

OK before I go off on my tangent, I have to say I laughed hard and loud over your intro paragraph. You are awesome and I bow to your gastronomic bravery. A security tag. Brilliant.

Now, about Pig Day! I love Pig Day! I threw a Pig Day! party back on Women.com in like 1999 and it was HUGE. I didn't so much encourage folks to eat their way through a pig, but we had fun with pig recipes, pig drawing, pig poetry, pig movies and everything pig.

I tried the party again the next year at iVillage and it was also fun but not as much fun. And every March 1 since I've celebrated it in some way, even if it was just a mention in a morning message board post to friends - except this year, Pig Day! got away from me. sniff. I remembered a few days before Pig Day! but on the day itself, forgot. Completely. When I remembered a week late, it was like someone probably feels when they forget their best friend's birthday or something.

Anyway - ummm thanks for mentioning Pig Day! and making me laugh. But I am not going to do any deep end eating. Shudder. I might be coaxed into trying a security tag, just for fun though.

~Denise
BlogHer Community Manager

Flamingo House Happenings ( http://www.flamingohouse.net/ )

Kalyn Denny 5 pts

There's a food blog called Deep End Dining ( http://www.deependdining.com/ ) which specializes in unusual foods, including animal parts of every kinds, insects, and other assorted edible oddities.  I bet you'd like it. Eddie Lin, the main writer has been on a few TV shows too, including CSI Miami.

Kalyn Denny
Kalyn's Kitchen ( http://kalynskitchen.blogspot.com )