Pitting Chef Against Tradition In Search Of The Perfect Fried Egg



  • To fairly compare flavors, I purposely overcooked the yolk on this egg, and backed off on going for the browning on the edges (since the Andrés egg had no browning at all).
  • Because I was particularly focused on cooking the egg — usually a fairly absent-minded activity frequently interrupted by other tasks — I noticed just how tricky it can be to flip that sunny-side up egg without folding over the whites. It was especially noticeable compared to the Andrés egg, which took no particular finesse at all to achieve the adorable little poached-egg-like package.

And the verdict?

Mr. Andrés' method is by far the better method. Not by just a little ... by a lot. The egg is somehow creamy all the way through, and the flavor transition from whites to yolk is smooth and seamless. I honestly don't know how that could be — there was no sharp "there it is" bite from the yolk — but I swear it's true. Straight up smooth eggy goodness. Comparing it to my favorite form of cooked egg — the poached egg — well, this is my new favorite.

As cool weather sets in, and eggs begin topping many of my favorite autumn and winter dishes, I'll be turning to this method again and again.

Karen Gibson



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