By Poor Man's Feast on February 01, 2014
(Note: this fish, above, is not a trout. It’s a striped bass, caught in the waters off Brooklyn.) Many years ago, when I was living in New York, I had the distinction of being fed a special lunch by a local Thai restaurant on Ninth Avenue, the owners of which claimed to have a simple and healthy but still festive cure for the excesses of the holiday season that had just passed. The place was tiny and perpetually dank, and lit by two dangling pink-toned incandescent bulbs that cast a warm, slightly lewd pallor on food and patron alike. . . .