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Alanna Kellogg is the second-generation author of Kitchen Parade, a food and recipe column that features seasonal recipes for every-day healthful eat...
 
 
 
 

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Before There Was Dorie, There Was Laurie: Laurie Colwin, That Is

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Food blogger devotion to Dorie Greenspan is well-recorded. But cookbook and fiction author Laurie Colwin? About her fiction, Anna Quinlan once wrote, "It is difficult to write about Laurie's fiction without preaching either to the converted or to the clueless." (With Passion and Affect, Gourmet, August 2001)

The food bloggers and food-blog readers who know Laurie Colwin, love Laurie Colwin, who in 1992 at age 48, simply didn't wake up one morning. She was the author of ten works of fiction and two rambling, homey cookbooks and a columnist for Gourmet magazine. Because she wrote her columns long in advance, her words continued in print for another year and were read with a certain poignancy, knowing where her thoughts took her during the last months of her life.

"Her voice is warm and generous, her writing style simple and elegant, and she has such an intimate way of telling tales that she makes you feel she wrote the book just for you. And more importantly, she is funny. Whether she's laughing at herself or pointing out entertaining traits in others, it is always clever and affectionate, never cynical nor cruel." ~ read Laurie Colwin's Home Cooking from Chocolate & Zucchini

"Maybe it's just the holiday, a time when those of us who are fortunate feel loved, feel warmed by the company of others, feel that groups of people dining together at someone's home is, indeed, a special occasion, but I find myself thinking about Laurie Colwin. She died unexpectedly and too young, and those of us who remember her still miss her, even if we knew her only through her books and her Gourmet columns. She was that kind of writer, that kind of person, someone you wanted as your friend: a funny, intelligent, full-of-heart kind of person, and one who would feed you well, to boot." ~ read Laurie Colwin from You Are What You Eat

"Take, for example, the darling delicata pictured above. This is a squash so luscious that I generally take the advice of Laurie Colwin, whose essay on vegetables in her lovely book Home Cooking first persuaded me to try delicata squash. She recommended merely baking it with butter and pepper, since the flavor of this gorgeous vegetable requires no other dressing. A woman ahead of her time, the late Ms. Colwin first wrote about delicata squash some 20 years ago. This was during an era when most of us were resigned to a choice of acorn or butternut once fall crops began to appear. I brook no sneering at butternut, however, which remains a perennial favorite of mine -- and which I gave a lovely new treatment quite recently, in a tantalizing gratin." ~ read Cuddling Up to Cucurbitacae -- The Winter Version from A Finger in Every Pie

I've long wished Gourmet would collect Laurie's columns and recipes, an online legacy for a culinary icon. But no. So when Deb from Smitten Kitchen and I both posted Laurie Colwin recipes today (Deb posted Laurie's Bread Without a Timetable and I posted what I call At Last! Black Bean Soup), I was inspired, Hey, why don't I build the collection? It won't be her prosaic columns but it will be, for the first time I think, a collection of her recipes. Turns out, only a few of Laurie Colwin's recipes have made it online, even though her name comes up often in blog comments. But here they are.

Kitchenography ~ Creamed Spinach with Jalapeño Peppers
The Perfect Pantry ~ Roasted Pepper Chicken
Love and Cooking ~ Lemon Chutney

Food Blog Search ~ More Laurie Colwin references

Have you posted a Laurie Colwin recipe? Read Home Cooking or More Home Cooking or her works of fiction? Leave a link or comment -- and then, let's all spread the word. This is someone whose legacy is worth preserving.

BlogHer food editor Alanna Kellogg writes the food column Kitchen Parade and the food blog about vegetables A Veggie Venture. She gave her copy of Home Cooking to Pille from Nami-Nami when she visited from Estonia this summer.

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Simmer Till Done 5 pts

From the day I found a battered copy of "Home Cooking" at a book sale, Laurie has been my constant companion - on the road, in waiting rooms, late at night, in the kitchen.  Thank you for continuing to champion her work and introducing her to your readers, certainly soon-to-be Laurie fans, too. :)

foodgal 5 pts

I have always loved to read books on a myriad of topics. And long before I ever became a food writer, I picked up a book by Laurie Colwin. I wasn't familiar with her work. But I couldn't stop reading from the first page on. It was the first time someone had brought food and cooking to life in such a way to me that was absolutely mesmerizing. Her books are timeless, and classic. And they remind me each and every day just how much love and heart goes into making great food.

kitchenography 5 pts

Wonderful idea, Alanna, and thank you for including a post of mine. I am a devoted Laurie Colwin fan; I reread Home Cooking and More Home Cooking at least once a year, if not more often. Everytime I go to one of those books for anything, I end up reading it from cover to cover.

Jen of Prepare to Meet Your Bakerina ( http://bakerina.com ) has a few Laurie Colwin recipes including Laurie Colwin's Cornbread and Prosciutto stuffing ( http://bakerina.com/bakerina/comments/iceberg_righ... ) and Jane Grigson's Sussex Pond Pudding ( http://bakerina.com/bakerina/a_pud_for_laurie_engl... ) which is the subject of one of the funniest of Laurie Colwin's essays -- an account of serving her husband-to-be and  friends an English pudding which none of the group likes and one of the guests describes as tasting like "lemon flavored bacon fat."    

Jen, who I think is a terrific writer, also has a wonderful post about Laurie Colwin ( http://bakerina.com/bakerina/comments/archive_like... ) written on the 13th anniversary of her death.

Julie ( http://kitchenography.typepad.com

Jane Becker 5 pts

I adore Laurie Colwin - her short stories were wonderful and her columns in Gourmet deconstructed cooking for me.  I still have a copy of her roast chicken and Kate Hepburn brownies column.  That roast chicken has achieved legendary status in our family. 

I'm with you - I wish Gourmet would gather her columns into a book.  Until then, here's a really lovely food blog with great recipes:  http://kitchen-notebook.blogspot.com/

Jane Becker

http://thedamedomain.blogspot.com ( http://thedamedomain.blogspot.com/ )