TWB: Traveling While Black

When I first started hefting a carry on into the overhead compartment, it seemed like everyone looked like me. Traveling was for Jewish kids sent off to work on the kibbutz or pale colored language students favored by their teachers enough to get the foreign exchange program recommendation. The browner travelers I saw were primarily visitors to family members divided by circumstances. I did meet travelers from all over the planet, but if they had any color to them, it's because they'd spent the last month on a Greek island or hanging out in the Sinai. Wandering was, it seemed, for the white.

I have no business speculating the why of this - there are so many possibilities and I'm sure to get it wrong. But I'm an observer. In a tiny town in Montana, outside a mini-mart, I whacked my husband on the arm. "HEY! That guy is BLACK!" I said, too loud. Oops. It was because at that moment I realized it had been weeks since I'd seen anyone browner than myself. You get what I'm saying. Europe, North America, the campgrounds and museums and public spaces occupied by cultural vagabonds? Oh, man, it's been really white. And the travelsphere has reflected that. Let me be perfectly clear: I see that as a bad thing.

But recently. I started to find myself reading a bunch of blogs by travelers calling themselves "divas." A couple of girlfriends doing some exploring. A network for travelers. Individual (argh, I hate this politically correct terminology) travelers of color. Something shifted. And I'm psyched about that. Traveling is about seeking out differences. And to have this new perspective in the mix makes for some great storytelling.

Earlier this year we met Lola, a Nigerian born blogger and traveler, for coffee and wandering in Seattle. She told us about visiting far north Sweden. I had to ask, "Did they stare at you? They probably never see anyone your color up there!" She said that the kids stared, but not in an unfriendly way. The thing that stuck with me more was her description of what it was like to be there. "I walked outside on to the snow, and the wind was blowing cold and everything was white and there was this sound from the wind and I thought, wow, I am a long way from Africa!" I think about that sometimes because for me one or the wonders of travel is that feeling of displacement. I was actually a little jealous. [Lola blogs at GeoTraveler's Niche - she's a terrific photographer, too.]

Two Jet Set Divas is the blog by two travel bug afflicted friends. I love browsing this blog because these women look unbelievably delighted in all of their photos, like they could not be happier. Their joy at traveling is totally apparent. And they do a Diva of the Month where there are photos and an interview with a like minded traveler. They've also got a community, JetSet Globetrottin' - it's lively and friendly.

There's The Traveling Diva - Tracy blogs about travels in India and Brazil, among other things - and there's Far Sighted Fly Girl. Ugogurl is a website that offers advice tailored for African American women travelers. and, oh, I'm sure there's more, but the Internet doesn't always let you see what color the blogger is - and that can be a good thing. But in this case, I'd love to find more of you. I can't speak for you and I want to know if it really is different to travel while black, brown, or whatever your minority is.

If you've got links and stories, please share.

Pam blogs about travel and other adventures at Nerd's Eye View. She's been mistaken for Native American more than once, including by two German girls on a train who did not realize she could understand Every Word They Said.

Comments

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Conflicted

October 30, 2008 - 1:09pm

Nettalyce

 

Wow I read your post and honestly I was at first a little pissed off.  But as I often have to do as an African American woman, I took a deep breath and attempted to understand my reaction.  I realize that it is normal to be curious.  On a certain level it is also healthy to be curious about others who are different than ourselves.  But I can't help feeling some conflicting angst at the fact that I automatically know (this can be argued I know) what you probably experience traveling as a person of non-color (sounds weird in reverse, doesn't it).  You however have to ask what I as a person of color experience.  This is not meant as a negative criticism of you.  It is that somedays the enormous chasm between my experiences and yours is overwhelmingly depressing.  Oh well, I'll stop venting to you and go and page my therapist :)

 

Just Not Getting It

October 30, 2008 - 1:29pm

First, I'm really glad you commented. 

And I decided to write about this knowing that it's a dicey subject. 

For personal context, I spent a lot of time living in central Europe, which is a REALLY HARD PLACE to be Jewish. After all, wow, historically, look what happened to the Jews there. And what's left is a pretty pale shadow of what used to be a vibrant community. Traveling While Jewish has its own challenges, I am here to tell you that. You look like everyone else and yet, you are so not a European Christian. There's a big chasm there, too. I've written a lot about this in other places.

I'm NOT saying my experience and yours are anywhere near the same. I AM saying that I am familiar with people Just Not Getting It. One more reason why I hesitated to post and asked for advice before I did. I may still be Not Getting It on this one. 100% admitted. I would like to think I am.

I am saying that I don't know what that experience is. And it must be different because check it out, it's being documented and there are resources tailored for these travelers. There are message boards and communities for "Minority Travelers" and as a curious person and one who LOVES travel stories, I want to know what is happening there. 

I am genuinely happy to see the faces of travelers- maybe I should specify, American travelers -  chaging from mostly white to something that looks more like our society. I wanted to not just ask the queston - will you share how it's different for you? - but also to say that I'm glad to see things changing. It's taken too long.

 

Nerd's Eye View

 

Oh do I have stories...

October 30, 2008 - 8:23pm

1. While living in Spain an older gentleman called out to me "Oye! Negra!" and I promptly died right there somewhere between the Lista and Goya neighborhoods in Madrid.  2. On a trip to Marrakech the men were trying to get us to buy things and then started pointing at me and calling me sister and insisting that I purchase whatever it was they were selling. When I walked off they got all pissed off at me because I was their 'sister' and I should be supporting them. If you read my most recent BH post, you'll know that i had like seven dollars while abroad so I shouldn't have been buying anything but clearly I wasn't purchasing because I'm mean and evil.  3. EVERYONE thought I was from Senegal and decided to treat me as such which included offering to braid my hair in the middle of the street.  All of the above occurred while living in Spain though in every other country I've visited in Europe (The Netherlands, Italy, France) no one has given me a second glance.  
Heather B.Personal Blog: No Pasa NadaBlogHer CE: Business, Career & Personal Finance

 

Explain the Senegal thing

October 31, 2008 - 9:00am

Because, really, that seems oddly random. Or maybe you can't and it IS oddly random. 

 

Nerd's Eye View

 

Our Experiences Are Different

October 31, 2008 - 9:19am

Farsighted Fly Girl: http://rosalindcummingsyeates.com/blog

 Thanks for the shout out Pam! I'm happy that you decided to bring this topic up because as you've acknowledged, our experiences are different. I've been traveling since I was a child and like most things that I enjoy outside of the narrow African American box, I 've gotten used to being the only spot of color on planes, in hotels and on foreign streets. That being said, I've noticed an increase of travelers of color over the last 6 or 7 years. Personally, I think part of the hesitancy is that it's one thing to experience discrimination in your familiar land, it's quite another to face it on foriegn soil where there may be language and cultural barriers thrown into the mix.  European and Asian racism is different from American racism and none of it is fun. I've not had many negative experiences flitting through 3 continents but just one can blind side you and ruin your overall experience. The most glaring racism that've ever felt was in lovely Costa Rica, where I was mistaken for a local and treated with the disdain that black Costa Ricans have to deal with. It was only one incident in a week's adventure but I'll never forget it.  On the bright side, I'm rarely a target for tourist hustlers or pick pockets. I usually don't get quoted the "rich American" price and I can typically blend in with the locals in South America, the Caribbean and major European cities.

 

As You Say, Travel Is About Observations

October 31, 2008 - 9:24am

Hi Pam,

As someone who likes to travel and has travelled on my own as a single, black women, it's always interesting to see some of the reactions I get.

If I go to the Caribbean, men flock to me like bees to honey because they think I'm a rich American.  How else could I travel on my own as a single black women?  :0

I've also had the same experience as Heather, where I'm considered one of the "sistas" only as long as I buy something.  If I don't I'm an "uppity American woman."

On the other hand, I've been in parts of Canada where I don't think the natives ever saw black people before.  There was no hostility, just lots of staring.  That's uncomfortable of course, but you either get used to it, or you travel in a place that makes you feel more comfortable.

I've never had problems in Europe, and in fact as a student, was treated very well in many countries, even staying with a family in Holland.  Though I will say, wherever I travel, if I see a couple of black people in an area that's not known for them, we'll almost always acknowledge each other, even if it's just with a nod and a smile.  It's as if to say, "Hey, great to see another black person travelling around."  It's like acknowledging another American of any race, when you're overseas.  It's a way of feeling a bit less "foreign."

Megan

BlogHer CE, TV/Online Video

My Personal Blog: Megan's Minute

 

Hmmmm...

October 31, 2008 - 9:26am

I understand what you're saying in terms of not seeing any people "browner" than yourself, but if you had done that while seeing me, I would have given you a very mean look.

I love to travel, but have come across some strangeness that I think was attributed to people not being familiar with black people.  In Mexico, my mom and I were looking at pocketbooks.  We were told to look at some that would be great for us, because they were bulletproof. I guess that is what the seller thought we would be looking for in accessories.  We were so pissed!!! 

Anali's First Amendment

 

Oh, it was TOTALLY uncool!

October 31, 2008 - 12:10pm

Luckily, we were in the car at the time. I have SOME self restraint. Had I been in earshot, I would have deserved the stink eye. It was the shock of realizing that we had strayed from our more diverse home into a place where everyone was so white. The guy was an anomaly, I couldn't help but notice. I also thought, wow, what is it like for that guy to live where he doesn't look like ANYONE? 

We had a German guest recently who told us that when she was a little girl traveling in the US with her parents, she ran up to a black man in the supermarket, grabbed his hands, and started shouting about the color of his skin. He was pretty mad. 

THAT was uncool too. 

 

Nerd's Eye View

 

Timely piece

October 31, 2008 - 2:27pm

Hey Pam.

Thanks for addressing this issue and more importantly, addressing it from a different pair of eyes.

Just like the other black avid travelers who've left comments, I too have experienced the gamut of emotions from hostility to adoration while traveling as a black woman.

Though one would think the challenges of traveling as a person of color would significantly outweight the advantages, I've certainly reaped some benefits.

For one, especially in Western Europe, you get to travel without being bothered because locals think you're an immigrant. You're less likely to be a target of theft because what of value could you possibly be carrying?!

As a photographer, locals who stare subsconscoiusly give me a few seconds more for portraits. I can capture those additional moments of gawking in a memorable travel portrait :)

It all boils down to traveling with an open mind. Some things are inevitable. The color of your skin unfortunately shapes your travel experience in some regions, but you have to make the most of it.

Earlier this year, I actually wrote about the issue of traveling with an open mind -

http://www.bravenewtraveler.com/2008/05/01/the-most-valuable-thing-you-can-pack-on-the-journey/

Lola

 

Well...

November 1, 2008 - 2:51pm

I was pretty interested to find out who had written this post.

"Is it a fellow black traveler I thought?"

No, but all the better and thank you Pam. Too often I feel as though I get into these discussions with other African Americans and the end result is always the same. We relate to one another, but we've not shared our experiences with someone who may not know what it's like "TRAVELING WHILE BLACK."

However, the black travel experience itself can be just as diverse as America's melting pot. I can relate to some of the stories above andeven your outburst in Montana. Believe me Pam, had I been there I would have probably hollered out the same words. I probably would have gone as far as racing up to him to inquire about his background. But I'm a little on the nosey side. Smile.

Before I share some of my own experiences in the big incredible world, I'd like to share one of my favorite poems by Countee Cullen. He was a poet from the Harlem Renaissance and I wrote a small plug about him last year. Here is the link:

http://adrienne-is.com/blog/?p=183

Here is the poem titled, Incident:

Once riding in old Baltimore,
Heart-filled, head-filled with glee,
I saw a Baltimorean
Keep looking straight at me.

Now I was eight and very small,
And he was no whit bigger,
And so I smiled, but he poked out
His tongue, and called me, “Nigger.”

I saw the whole of Baltimore
From May until December;
Of all the things that happened there
That’s all that I remember.

Now of course Countee Cullen lived in different times and I never used this poem as an example to say "if you're black and traveling to beware!!!" Moreso to say of all the castles, gardens, beaches and temples you may find on your travels - it always seems to come back on the people whether ot not your trip was truly enjoyable. The snobby and rude waiter, the overly helpful kid on the streets, etc... My own opinion of course.

While I was in Romania in 2001 at a museum in a very rural area there was a man (pretty drunk) who seem to be making a lot of chatter about Africa and looking at me (I was the only black person there). His friends were EXTREMELY embarassed and tried to keep him hushed, but he wouldn't shush. He made a gesture as if to hang himself or a noose like gesture and when I finally asked what he was saying to the women their only response, "it's nothing, he's drunk." Hmmm... It doesn't make me think negatively of Romania or that particular area in Romania, but it happened.

While in Tajikistan in 2006 I recieved an incredible amount of unwanted attention which was strange because there was another person of African heritage (from Scotland) in our group. It could have been my hair-do at the time (corn rows / plaits), but even then it was still all too much. Chased by kids with camera phones in the streets and so on. I posted my feelings on this experience over at Gadling.com. The link can be found here:

http://www.gadling.com/2006/09/23/being-invisible-in-foreign-countries/

Lastly, I agree with Lola on many points. I think there are so many more benefits than disadvantages. Seeing a village (Vrang, Tajikistan) bicker and fight over whose house I will have tea at is just awesome. In Western Europe people think nothing of my resence and I'm naturally left alone in many of the darker countries.

Anywho, I think I've gone overboard here. Thank you again for posting. I'll be visiting many of the links/blogs you mentioned and I hope that I provided some insight.

My personal blog is www.adrienne-is.com/blog

Cheers,

Adrienne

 

 

BlackGirlTravel.com

January 6, 2009 - 6:44pm

Another great website for Black (African-American) travelers is www.BlackGirlTravel.com

 
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