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Dawn Viola is a professional chef and recipe developer, food writer, and the voice behind the award-winning food blog, Wicked Good Dinner. She serves...
 
 
 
 

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When Good Recipes Go Bad: Six Tips for Baking Success

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Before culinary school, I was never a champion baker. And although I'm fascinated by food science and have a cooking degree under my belt, I find I have no patience for the precise anal antics required for successful baking. I much prefer the free form creativity that savory cooking offers -- a pinch of this, a dash of that. This weekend was going to be different, though. This weekend, I was going to faithfully follow recipes, to a tee, to ensure that all of my baking turned out perfectly, and I could hold my floury face up high.

Instead, baking kicked my butt from one end of the kitchen to the other.

The popover debacle:


I'm sorry, Williams-Sonoma, but we're breaking up. It's not me, it's you. It's you and your hors d'oeuvres book, which I purchased on Thursday for one recipe, and one recipe only: Roquefort Popovers. The recipe was simple. The photo was stunning. The results were disappointing and left me wondering (1) what did I do wrong, because this looks nothing like the picture? and (2) did they even test the recipe? I ended up with deformed, eggy, cheesy, quiche-like discs.

The eggy bread that didn't stay for the second act:


Then, I had trouble making a bread recipe from Gourmet magazine. I'm usually good with breads -- yeast cooperates, dough rises, spongy goodness follows. But the dough let me down this weekend. My first rise was perfect and exciting, but my second was a deflated disappointment. I decided to bake it anyhow, and for whatever reason, it baked at record speed on the temp/time requested in the recipe, and I almost burned the poor bugger.

The mini cheesecakes that wouldn't let go:


Cheesecake anyone? Yeah, me, too. But Giada's "Everyday Italian" mini-cheesecake recipe didn't come out as nicely as it did on TV. The crumb crust stuck, and the cheesecake didn't want to let go of the pan.

Variables? Sure, there are always variables. So many that it's easy to blame the cook when recipes don't always turn out right. Outside temperature, humidity, ingredients, procedure, cooking vessels, oven temperature fluctuations -- they all play in important role in the success or failure of baking.

So, what's a girl to do?


It hurts, I know. But more often than not, the failure of most baking adventures has to do with one or more of the most common baking bungles below. Learn to spot that weak link, and your baking will have the best chance at making it past the garbage disposal:

  • Buy a scale and weigh your ingredients. Weight measurement, especially for flour, is much more accurate than measuring cups and will ensure you're using the exact amount a recipe calls for every single time.
  • Follow the recipe exactly. If the recipe calls for room temperature eggs, by golly, use room temperature eggs.
  • Purchase an oven thermometer you can keep in the oven itself to monitor its temperature. It's sad but true, most ovens do not maintain an accurate temperature correlating with its nifty temperature knob or digital reading.
  • Use fresh ingredients. If your flour is more than three months old, toss it. If spices are more than six months old, it's time to replace. Same with butter and milk and eggs -- buy local and fresh.
  • Mise en place, (pronounced miz ɑ̃n plas) is a French phrase meaning "everything in place," and refers to the set-up of your kitchen and ingredients. Having your "mise" set up before you begin baking or cooking means that you've preheated your oven, prepared and measured your ingredients, gathered needed utensils and everything you may possibly need to make a recipe. Mise will help you stay organized and in control of your recipe.
  • In the event you've followed the recipe exactly, with perfect execution, and it still turned out less than stellar, it could possibly be an untested recipe that was published for whatever reason. Do some research online, compare similar recipes and see where the ingredients went wrong and at what point the recipe led you astray. Give it a try again, and if successful, you should pat yourself on the back -- you just created your own recipe!

    And what was the culprit of my Williams-Sonoma popover problem?

    Number three -- oven temperature. The recipe called for a temperature too high for my dark, non-stick mini-muffin tins. The outside baked too quickly, crusted, and stuck to the pan, which then led to the bottom separating and moving to the sides as the middle puffed. I was left with a deflated disc
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fausseparisienne 5 pts

I have become well versed in this kind of disasters. I moved to Colombia where it is 7,000 feet here on top of the Andes. This is a disaster for baking. I take meticulous notes, following the recipe to a “t” then I must make my alterations. This is were the notes help. Plus the over thermometer is a must. Here they don’t bake and the only ovens in apartments like mine are of the large toaster variety, which are the most unreliable things in the world.

dawnviola 5 pts

@Laurie in Sri Lanka -- thanks for sharing your experiences with oven temp and pans!! It's interesting how such a little thing, like the type of pan, can change your entire baking results.

-Dawn Viola
Wicked Good Dinner ( http://www.wickedgooddinner.com )

LMAshton 5 pts

Along the lines of oven temperatures being an issue is the type of bakeware used affecting the items being baked.

Cream puffs, for example, baked in an aluminum pan stick to the bottom regardless of oiling, buttering, buttering & flouring, or anything else that I might do to the pan. They always stick. Those same cream puffs in a glass pan end up with a weird smooth glassy texture on the bottom that just doesn't feel right. Baked on a non-stick tray, they're pretty good, but baked in my silicone cake pan, they turn out perfect every single time, including puffing up way more than they do in other types of pans.

I have similar issues with cakes in aluminum (which I really hate, but here, it's just about all that's available) pans versus glass or silicone.

With baking bread in a bread pan, I've read from other baker's blogs that the type of pan they use hugely affects the outcome of the loaf, and different people seem to end up with different favourite pans for specific types of breads.

Additionally, oven temperature isn't necessarily even front to back or side to side. In my oven, I can bake something that'll be raw at the front while it burns at the back. It's a flaw in the design of the flame ring. I've learned that for this oven, I need to put whatever I'm baking left to right the long way and shove it all the way to the back. If I'm baking something like bread or pizza where I can open the oven partway and turn it, I do that at the halfway point. It's the only way to get even baking.

Weighing ingredients - I changed over to that several years ago and will never go back to the volume measurements again. Weighing does make that much of a difference in terms of consistent results.

Laurie in Sri Lanka

Chilli & Chocolate ( http://food.laurieashton.com ) | A Canadian in King Parakramabahu's Court ( http://srilanka.laurieashton.com ) ] Photos by LMAshton ( http://photos.lmashton.com ) |

dawnviola 5 pts

@midnightbliss, as long as you're enjoying the process, keep on baking! Even if it turns out terrible, sometimes the process is worth it if it's a hobby you enjoy :-)

-Dawn Viola
Wicked Good Dinner ( http://www.wickedgooddinner.com )

midnightbliss 5 pts

i don't have formal education in cooking but i can say that i can cook well but not bake. lols. it's always a disaster when i bake, maybe i'm not just good in following instructions.

dawnviola 5 pts

@karenz, that's a GREAT tip!! I love the idea of setting the timer for the butter.

-Dawn Viola
Wicked Good Dinner ( http://www.wickedgooddinner.com )

Cassandra 5 pts

Thank you so much for the awesome conversion tool! Now, I'm going to need to experiment, though, with my old recipes. I am curious to see if I will really notice a difference with my old favorites if I start weighing instead of measuring. I wondered at first if weighing would be a pain, but I found it easier than measuring.

RE the butter issue: I solved that by switching to cookie recipes that call for melted butter! LOL!
Patience is a virtue that takes too long ( http://take3-cassandra.blogspot.com/ )

karenz 5 pts

Butter temperature always trips me up when making cookies. If the recipe calls for softened butter and mine is too softened, everything is flat and runny. I've learned to put a butter stick on the counter and set a timer for 30 minutes to help avoid disasters.

...Karen  

_____________________________

Email: karen [at] karenzgoda.org

Web Site: http://www.karenzgoda.org

dawnviola 5 pts

@Cassandra, oh, you are so right about that; drives me nuts sometimes, LOL! I use the standard conversions from my culinary school books. I found a great conversion tool online here: http://www.convert-me.com/en/convert/cooking

-Dawn Viola
Wicked Good Dinner ( http://www.wickedgooddinner.com )

Cassandra 5 pts

I just received a good scale for my bday, and I got it specifically for my baking, but the only recipes I have that use weights and not volumes are in my Baking Illustrated book and a book from the UK. Even the Williams Sonoma popover recipe (which I googled b/c it looks so darn yummy) does not use weights for anything.
Patience is a virtue that takes too long ( http://take3-cassandra.blogspot.com/ )